Modernity and Tradition: Malaysia

“Since President Johnson’s visit here to Malaysia in 1966, there’s perhaps no region on Earth that has changed so dramatically. Old dictatorships have crumbled. New voices have emerged. Controlled economies have given way to free markets. What used to be small villages, kampungs, are now gleaming skyscrapers.”-Barack Obama, upon his visit to Malaysia, the first by a U.S. President since 1966

Kuala Lumpur

Kuala Lumpur could be a major city anywhere in the world.  Except. Except, except, except.

Except that most of its skyline is less than 20 years old. The city really only started developing as a fully modern city since 1999.

Except that its modernity is mixed with Victorian structures reminding the visitor of the colonial era that Malaysia struggled so hard to overcome.

Except that its Chinatown is still vibrant, albeit with the infamous Petaling Street, filled with vendors selling knock-offs of designer items.

Except that its craftspeople display extraordinary artistry.

Except that it is a city of many different religions that co-exist in a predominantly (and officially) Muslim country. 

Except that it is the only Muslim city I have ever visited where statuary—particularly the statue at its national monument that was designed by the same architect who designed the Iwo Jima Memorial—portrays human beings (which I have been told is frowned upon in many branches of Islam).

Except that its national monument shows the soldiers and fighters of its recent history.  A history where nationalists tried to overcome colonial rule, and welcomed Japanese invasion in WWII as liberators, only to find a more brutal regime.  Where a communist activists became national heroes in fighting and resisting the Japanese occupation, only to become national villains when they employed terrorist tactics after WWII to attack Europeans and resist the re-start of colonialism.  The battling continued until independence from England in 1957 and beyond.  Eventually, with western involvement, the communists were defeated and Malaysia embraced capitalism with a vengeance, thus leading to the modern capital city we see today.

Except that its very strong tourism trade is tailored primarily to Asians, and not the West.  But westerners are certainly made to feel welcome.

Except that its heat and humidity are at times overwhelming.

But its multiplicity of shopping malls, modern cuisine, hipster entertainments, and high fashion mark it as a major world-class city that could be anywhere.

Penang

Diversity of cultures and religions is a hallmark of the Malaysian island of Penang.  Peppered with temples of all descriptions, its capital city of George Town includes lovely Victorian homes juxtaposed with lively and vivid temples of various ethnic takes on Hinduism, Buddhism, Christianity, and Islam. 

The city boasts of the world’s fourth-largest reclining Buddha—one that looks very different from what we in the west often envision when we think of a Buddha.  This is a Thai temple, across the street from a Burmese temple that features standing Buddhas.

Langkawi

 1987.  That is the year that is constantly cited as the game-changer for this island resort.  What happened then?  The island was declared duty-free.  It thus became a mecca for shoppers from all over Asia, coming to buy liquor, chocolates, designer items, household goods, and all manner of other items.  The shoppers soon discovered its magnificent beaches and its mountain summit that, on a clear day, can provide a view of both the main Malaysian island and of the south of Thailand.

All the spots were visited in the week we spent in Malaysia were interesting and/or lovely.  And all were extremely hot and humid.  But very much worth a visit.

Next up: Singapore